Battle Ham: Part 2

Family Potluck Christmas with 2008 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay: 4/5

Sorry about the delay on the conclusion of Battle Ham. Incase you missed the basis of the challenge, I will tell you again. Knowing full well that my mom was going to make a ham on our family Christmas on Sunday, I decided to make a ham on Christmas day, to compare the two in BATTLE HAM!

Although my mom was not as enthused as I was, when I told her, she said, “That’s a good Idea, I don’t really do anything special to my ham, I just pop it in the oven.” With victory on my taste buds, I waited while mom’s basic ham baked in the oven.

For holiday feasts, my family likes the idea of a pot luck. Usually the host will prepare the appropriate protein, and everyone else will bring appetizers, sides, or desserts. With the enormous amount of food, everyone is left to lunch on leftovers for the next week.

This Christmas was no different, although my mom took it upon herself to make scalloped potatoes, corn pudding, and rolls as well. My grandpa’s wife Pat brought green bean casserole, my grandma, coleslaw, my Aunt Molly, fruit and homemade fruit dip, and Michael and I, my Christmas bonus from the Cheesecake factory, a cheesecake. Since my brother Jeff and his wife Michelle had to drive all over god’s wintery earth this Christmas they were excused from cooking.

My mom is more of a beer vs. wine drinker, and when it comes to the extent of her wine knowledge, it goes about as far as the box of red in the refrigerator and a couple bottles around the house. We could of brought a bottle to bring, but by the time I thought of it, we were already in the car and on the way. So I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.

Consisting of a a couple bottles of Barefoot, Yellow Tail, and a few others, the selection was looking scarce, until I stumbled upon a bottle of Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. Now I know I said that ham is a red meat and should be paired with red wine, but if there were any white that would to stand up the fat in ham, it would be Chardonnay. With a description of an arrangement of fruit from apples to mangos, and an alcohol content of 13.5% apv, there was a chance that the Chard would fit the bill.

Initially I thought my mom got a spiral ham, but after inspecting it in the oven there was nothing spiral about it. In the past there have been syrupy glazes, and cloves, but this year I guess my mom wanted to keep it simple. So as the plain ham came out of the oven, I began to wonder, did I do to much to my ham?

Surveying the spread, my eyes began to inflate with my stomach. Since my family has never had a giant dinning room, we always do buffet style when it comes to big get together, usually complete with food that wraps around the entire kitchen. I like to stuff as much as I can on my plate, portioning out each item in a pie chart fashion.

As we corked the bottle of wine and everyone made their rounds, my mouth began to salivate, and my nerves raced over which ham would reign supreme.

With traditional flavors—ham, potatoes, and corn, the harmony of the meal just tasted like the holidays. The green bean casserole kept it’s crunch, the scallop potatoes were cooked perfectly, and grandma’s coleslaw added an needed zing to the meal. My mom really does make the best rolls in the world, and this christmas she also made her cardamom rolls.

Cardamom, for those of you who don’t know, is in the same family as ginger, but is used in Swedish cooking. With a spicy flavor, reminiscent of all spice, the flavor resonates in your mouth like cinnamon. I associate it with Christmas since my mom usually make Christmas bread, hot crust buns, and cardamom rolls, all with a fair share of the spice.

Taking a swig of the wine, I was a bit apprehensive. With a nose filled with fruity flavors, and a golden straw hue, the wine’s flavor was light and clean. When combined with the ham, the pairing was pleasant, since there were no glaze on the ham the fruity flavors of the wine brought out the smokiness of the meat. But when matched with the sides, the fattiness of the scalloped potatoes and green bean casserole, over powered the subtly of the vino.

So, now, to break down who’s ham took the cake. Not only because I made it, but because the spices brought out a depth in the wine and the smokiness of the meat, I have to go with my ham. Although, although, although, the side served with mom’s ham, reigned, hands down, over my souffle, veggie medley, and Mike’s sweet potatoes.

After being showered with tons of cooking loot, and goodies to take home, Michael and I packed up the car and headed back to our little apartment over the lake. With a foggy haze hanging over the glowing city, I couldn’t help but think how much I love my family, and Chicago. It was truly a perfect evening, with an almost perfect pair.

Battle Ham: Part 1

Crock Pot Ham with 2008 Castle Rock Pinot Noir: 5/5

For the holidays my family tends to keep it traditional—turkey for Thanksgiving, ham for Christmas. But since my family resides from mid-Wisconsin, to lower Illinois, the holidays are usually held on a day that is most convenient for everyone. That happens to be tomorrow.

So as I was debating dinner for Michael and I’s Christmas, I was struck with an idea. Since my mom was making ham, why don’t I make a ham as well, and compare the two! Too much ham you say? When it comes to Christmas, you can never have enough ham.

Lo-and-behold, with the few remaining hams in the grocery store on Christmas Eve, I was able to score a $20 ham for $8. With some sides in mind I grabbed a bottle of wine, and headed home to tackle the hunk of meat.

Most likely, my mom will prepare her ham in the oven, or a roaster pan. She’s been known to buy a spiral cut ham, which makes perfect slices, and usually comes with a glaze packet, so I wanted to do the opposite. A ham in the Crock pot is as easy as any other meat in the crock-pot, all you have to do is let it cook for 8 hours.

With the meat simmering away, Michael and I spent the day making doughnuts, candy cane cookies, and a souffle so Rachel, my veggie friend, would have something substantial to eat when it came time for dinner. Following Mark Bittman’s spinach and cheese souffle recipe, my souffle did not fall! Needless to say, for my first souffle, I was very thrilled. (Julia Child’s Recipe is very similar and can be found at, http://www.bigoven.com/160575-Spinach-and-Cheese-Souffle-recipe.html)

About 3 hours into the cooking of the ham, the smell was already unbearably intoxicating. The smell of salty ham and cloves combined with baking cookies, and A Christmas Story on repeat, filled our apartment with yule tide merriment.

When it came time to glaze the turkey, I looked for a recipe a bit out of the ordinary. While most recipes called for corn syrup and brown sugar, I found one that called for coffee and apple cider vinegar http://www.cdkitchen.com/recipes/recs/11/Brown_Sugar_Ham_Glaze1602.shtml. Since the meat was so tender and falling apart, I decided to modify the glaze into more of a jus, so that the meat could soak up the flavor.

Now ham is technically a red meat, which traditionally is paired with red wines. But concerned that a Cabernet would over power the delicate flavors of the souffle and the sweetness of the sweet potatoes, I opted for a lighter red. Rachel is originally from Sanoma County, California, so when I found a bottle of 2008 Castle Rock Pinot Noir, out of Mendocino County, a hop jump and a skip away from Sanoma County, I thought it was fitting.

With an alcohol content of 13.8% the Pinot would have a nice medium body. Described as having notes of raspberry and strawberry, I thought the lighter flavors would pick up on the smokiness of the ham, the savory souflee, and the sweet, sweet potatoes. Although a young red, the wine would have just that bit of tannin to compete with the fat content of the ham.

To keep the integrity of the souffle I decided to serve everything family style. Which was fitting with it being Christmas and all. The three of us sat, new, hungry, friends, and the feast was complete, except for the sweet potatoes, which joined the party after a bit of a marshmallow catastrophe.

Soaking up the smoky flavor of the cloves, and just a hint of bitterness from the coffee, the ham was divine. Of course, since it was not spiral cut, Michael and I ravaged over chunks of meat, but we didn’t mind. The meat was juicy and tender, retaining it’s juices from the crock pot. Mixed with the souffle the effect was almost that of a ham cheese and spinach omelet, a pleasant and unexpected surprise.

The wine had a wonderful medium body, and was a gem to sniff. The rich fruity flavors, contrasted nicely with such a wintery meal. Coating my palate the wine felt like silk, sloshing over my tongue and sliding down my throat. The effect was everything I wanted it to be, the ham did not over power the wine, nor the wine the meat or the souffle.

I don’t know if my mom’s ham will be able to compete with mine, but to her benefit she will have the added effect of family, love, and that magic that comes from mom’s cooking. But for now, I am going to choose my ham and wine as the perfect pair.

Pre-Planned Paradise

BBQ beef on homemade pretzel rolls with 2006 Phantom Red: 5/5

It’s easy to fall into the routine of eating out when you work over 40 hours a week, but I am telling you, it’s worth it to plan out a couple of meals each week, and EAT LEFTOVERS.

I had to work on Wednesday afternoon, so the monday before I began thinking of what I could make while at work. Clicking through some crock-pot recipes I found a well rated recipe for BBQ pulled pork. http://southernfood.about.com/od/pulledporkrecipes/r/bl103c4.htm. Not finding any pork roasts at the grocery store I settled on beef, which worked just as well.

On Tuesday night I prepared my roast, so all I had to do Wednesday morning was plug it in and turn it on. I also added a some garlic salt and pepper to season the beef a bit more.

Then came the next step of planning. I try to push myself outside my cooking comfort zone every time I step foot in the kitchen, and this time homemade pretzel rolls were up for a duel. http://www.chow.com/recipes/11096

I’ve never made rolls, let alone pretzel rolls. In the future I would like a kitchen thermometer, so I won’t kill the yeast, and a Kitchen Aid mixer, so I don’t have to work my arm into a gelatinous state. Did you know pretzels get their distinct pretzel-ness from a bath of boiling water and baking soda before they are baked? Neither did I.

So with the main part of my meal covered, I was left to tackle the sides. Like a good skirt needs a good top to make a great ensemble, the same applies to a meal. Your side dishes should accompany, not compete or overpower, the star of your main course. Think, meat, potatoes, and corn. The potatoes and corn are perfect compliments to most any American meat dish.

To round out the meal, I decided to prepare a winter salad of mixed greens, oranges, pomegranate, feta, and a citrus balsamic vinaigrette. I never prepared a pomegranate before, so I hit You Tube to find a how-to video. Lo-and-behold from the kitchen of some lady I’ve never seen before, I found “Preparing Pomegranates” http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-prepare-pomegranates-81307/. Advised to cut over a bowl of water, allowing the arils (seeds) to sink to the bottom, while the pith (the white unedible stuff) floats to the to top, I set off on my own pomegranate adventure. It was a success— stain free, mess free.

Thinking about this meal for a couple of days, it was starting to gain some importance. So I decided to splurge a little on a bottle of wine. Back in my first post, I talked about Un-cork It, a wine and liquor shop not to far from my house, and the rude snobby guy that turned his nose up at me when I asked for a wine to accompany pot roast, well I decided to go back. To my surprise, I was greeted with a friendly smile, and when inquiring about wine, I was taken directly to some California reds, and told not about one wine, but about three.

So I decided on a 2006 bottle of Phantom Red from the Bogle Vineyards, a blend of Petite Sirah, old vine Zinfandel, and old vine Mourvedre. I have never heard of the Mourvedre grape, so when I got home I did a little research.

Apparently Mourvedre is a late ripening grape partial to stony and rocky soil and warmer climates. The wine is used in blends, is medium bodied, and has deep notes of cherry and berries.

The bottle of Phantom had an alcohol content of 14.5%, which must have come from the Zinfandel based on the above description of the Mourvedre, but a strong body would be in order to balance the rich BBQ beef.

Around 8 o’clock, with the apartment coated in a symphony of fresh baked bread, onions, BBQ sauce, and orange, it was time to eat. Pouring a stream of rich ruby liquid into my glass I sat salivating, before the pre-planned feast. Looking back at me, was a meal better than I had pictured, little red pomegranate arils peeked out beneath vibrant green leaves. A buttery brown roll burst forth a bed of BBQ, while the spinach sent tendrils of steam into the air.

Bringing out the smokiness of the beef, the salty pretzel rolls were a perfect compliment. The salad had the warmth of winter, snuggled in a bed of citrus, and sweet pockets of shallots complimented the spinach like a perfect dance partner.

With a bold fruity flavor, the wine coated my palate, leaving a trace of tannin, but kept a smooth finish. With subdued notes of blackberry, black cherry, and vanilla, the flavors echoed the warmth of the BBQ, while playing with the subtly of the pomegranate and citrus. Each sip brought more depth and contrast to the flavors.

With proper preparation, a feast can be made in no time. No matter if it’s for a party of 100 or a just 2, the satisfaction of a kitchen success is well worth the wait. Think, the next time you are about to settle for a quick bite, do I have time to whip up something spectacular? You could reveal a perfect pair.

Out at ENO

Forlorn Hope Flight and Cheese: 4/5

Price: $$

Address: 505 North Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611

With modern high top wooden tables, a bar of faux marble, and floor to ceiling wine racks, ENO (pronounced EE-noh, as in oenology the art of making wine), in the ground level of the Intercontinental Hotel on Michigan Avenue, attempts to give the feeling of a modern winery, but comes off more as an amusement park recreation.

Started as a refined wine bar in California, specializing in a variety wine, cheese, and chocolate pairings, this now hoity toity chain is strategically located adjacent to high end hotels, leeching off tourist’s and businessmen’s money.

With a variety of options, patrons can choose from wine flights, cheese plates, or the ENO experience, an $85 tour of wine, meat, cheese, and chocolate. Unfortunately for me, the ENO experience was unavailable due to a lack of meat. With one sommelier, one server, and one busser, the operation was run more like circus than a relaxing retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. Expecting to be educated by the sommelier, I was instead brushed off, as she hurried to her computer to delete emails from her over-full inbox. Later, after understanding the rest of the staff was on vacation leaving these three workers to run the establishment for the entire weekend, I was able to forgive the rude behavior.

Deciding on a flight of Forlorn Hope wines paired with a cheese plate recommended by the sommelier, I watched as a slab of marble was placed on a cutting board and adorned with bread, marcona almonds, a seasonal fruit spread, and the three cheeses. Presented together, the wine and cheese were clearly marked by printed cards, including information of names, flavor profiles, and cases produced (for wines).

First was the 2008 Forlorn Hope La Gitana Torrontes from Alta Mesa, California, a light un-oaked white. With strong lychee notes, and hints of a subtle floralness, the Torrontes was light and refreshing on the palate. Paired with a Ossau-Iraty Sheep Cheese from Basque, France, the hard cheese brought out the light complexity of the wine, while adding a subtle saltiness.

Second was the 2007 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdehlo from Amador County, California. This oaked white was fuller bodied and had immediate walnut notes, with a background of honey. Paired with the Gaperon Cow Cheese from Auvergne, France, this soft garlic and peppercorn cheese, was able to contrast with the nuttiness of the wine, providing a strong depth and concentration of flavors.

For the finale the 2008 Forlorn Hope Suspiro del Moro Alvarelhao from Alta Mesa, California, was truly the creme de la creme of the flight. With only 77 cases produced, the wine had rich notes of tobacco mixed with rhubarb, giving off almost an incencse like flavor. Paired with the Sottocenere cow cheese from Venice, Italy, rich in smoky truffle flavors, the combination was a melt in your heart experience.

Sparking conversation at any chance to cool the frustrated employees I was treated to a shitake truffle and another splash of the Alvarelhao. The Alvarelhao brought out the earthiness of the mushrooms, while the smooth chocolate complimented the tobacco flavors of the wine. Truly exceptional.

ENO, while providing over 200 wines, is still a tourist trap, and with places like Wine Styles located a mile south, offering a variety of great cheap wines by the bottle, it will be hard to come back again. But if you don’t mind spending $50 dollar on three 3oz pours and some cheese to impress your date, then ENO is a pretty perfect pair.

Meaty, Meaty Meatloaf

Meatloaf and 2006 Oxford Landing Cabernet and Shriaz Blend: 4/5

American classics—grilled cheese, green bean casserole, pot roast, apple pie. Recipes that came from cupboards and freezers, combinations of miscellaneous odds and ends in a post depression America. In my mind, one recipe screams classic more than any other, a simple combination of ground meat, bread crumbs, some seasoning, and usually ketchup—meatloaf.

Meatloaf, as with many classic american comfort food recipes, is a product of the middle class. Nothing in the dish is rare, exotic, or hard to find. No ingredients are too expensive, and it is able to feed a family of four with some left over. But, classic recipes, usually are lacking in flavor.

Growing up we only had meatloaf a hand full of times. I don’t know if it was my mom’s recipe, or my dad’s distaste for ketchup, but no one really cared for the gelatinous brown mass, blood red, from its tomatoey bath.

But after receiving a call from Michael telling me he got an invitation to go see the Flaming Lips, I wasn’t feeling very motivated to go to the grocery store to make something for myself. So I opened the fridge, the pantry, then the freezer, and then Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything, which is now on my christmas list. With a pound of ground beef in the fridge, along with some veggies, ground venison in the freezer, and panko in the pantry, it was looking like meatloaf was for dinner. http://springpadit.com/ketherian/recipe/bittmansmeatloaf

Of all the meatloafs I’ve had in my life, none have included fresh herbs or minced carrot, and they all were basted in ketchup, so I was a little anxious to taste the final product of this recipe. Would it be better than mom’s? To spice mine up a bit, I added some Worcestershire sauce, some various spices from my cupboard, and what they hey, I had it my fridge, so I minced a rib of celery as well.

For you vegetarians out there, meatloaf is not the prettiest thing to watch while it is cooking. As the outside browns, fat is cooked out of the loaf, seeping onto the baking dish, some coagulating around the meat. Maybe that’s why my mom didn’t like to cook meat loaf. While you can cook meat loaf in a loaf pan, it retains it shape, so you can also make a loaf shape on a baking dish, which is what I did.

Since there was no shopping involved in this recipe, I was left pairing with a wine from my collection. I knew I wanted a red wine. Although the ground beef and venison I used were lean, they were still red meat, and were going to need some tannin to cut through all that meatiness. Now a heavier bodied merlot or a cabernet, would probably outweigh the herbs and spices in the meatloaf, and unfortunately most of my red collection is just that. But, continuing my search, I found something promising.

A blend of Cabernet and Shiraz, the 2006 Oxford Landing blend from south Australia, could fit the bill, not the most expensive wine, but I wasn’t making the most expensive meal, so it seemed perfect. With a description of blackberry and plum, and an alcohol content of 13.5%, the blend would have the perfect body to pair with the lean red meat.

To accompany the meatloaf, I decided on a baked sweet potato and some veggies. For those of you who have not had a baked sweet potato, I strongly suggest giving it a shot. In my opinion, sweet potatoes just have more flavor than traditional russets, while still lending themselves to a variety of toppings. While I like mine with sour cream or butter, you can also top them with brown sugar, cinnamon, candied walnuts, or even maple syrup, perfect to warm you up in the winter. Sweet potatoes are also healthier for you. Lower in empty starches, high in beta carotene, vitamin A, C, and B6, its something you can feel good about eating.

As the loaf made its way out of the oven, sweet smells of parsley, onion, and celery swept the space around me. On multiple occasions now, Michael and I’s neighbors have stopped us on the way to the elevator, and asked if we were the ones doing all of the good smelling cooking. What can I say? I am thinking of buying a dry erase board for our door and post the evening’s pairing.

Staring at the mass of meat, I studied the specks of green and orange. It just looked better than my mom’s. Worried that the loaf would crumble under the weight of my knife I started my first slice. To my surprise everything held together, and was cooked completely through. Examining the cross section, the various specks of other ingredients were perfectly suspended throughout the loaf like little flavor pockets waiting to be popped.

Swirling and sniffing, the wine smelled very oaky and acidic, but after a second swirl I could pick out some blackberry notes. Having aged a couple of years, the wine was darker in color, and had noticeable legs, but did not coat the glass like syrup. Upon first taste, I was over powered by the strong acidity, burning my throat on the way down. I began to worry that the meatloaf didn’t stand a chance.

Segmenting a small bite, I brought the meatloaf to my mouth. I was overpowered by the rich herby flavor of the parsley, with fresh compliments of carrot and celery. Even with wine on my palate the bold zest of the meatloaf was able to withstand the acidity of the wine. With the sweet flavor of the sweet potato, and the cruchiness of steamed veggies, I was in a 1950s dining room, complete with mom in pearls.

As I sat alone at my dining room table, I made the realization that food is best when shared. Not only is it the wine and food being paired, it’s also the company. But solitude aside, it was a perfect pair.

Three's Company

Baked Macaroni and Cheese with 2007 Ménage à trois Chardonnay: 4/5

When looking for a quick dinner, I strongly urge you not to grab a box, or a package, or something you will have regretted ingesting the moment you have finished. When looking for a quick dinner, a delicious meal can be whipped up in a few short minutes.

Since I had gone to see Up in the Air, with Rachel, by the time we were finished hanging out it was dinner time. Conveniently, directly across the street from the movie theater was a Dominick’s. So, without looking for a recipe, I decided to enter the store and see what spoke to me.

With quarter sized snow flakes falling from the sky like marshmallows, I was reminded of childhood. The days where mom would not have time to prepare an extravagant meal, yet despite raising two boys, going to school, and working, she was able to whip up something that we could share for dinner.

Many of you, when thinking of mac and cheese, would automatically picture the blue box. And while I am not saying that there was never a blue box meal in our house growing up, there was also something more.

I’m talking about homemade macaroni and cheese, simple, yet some much better than than powdered cheese and orange food coloring found in the tinfoil paper package. There would be the nights where my mom would pull that giant casserole dish out of the oven, seeing the tension in her face from the weight, and I would know that what was in that dish was made with a million times more love than what could come out of any box.

So when walking through the grocery store, with the marshmallow snow flakes falling outside, I was craving my mom’s mac and cheese. But, as any good cook will attest, no matter how hard you try, yours is never going to be as good as mom’s. So with that in mind, I wanted to put my own spin on the dish.

When I got home I thumbed through Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything and found his Baked Macaroni and Cheese recipe, http://www.howtocookeverything.tv/recipe.php%3Fnid=27.html, and compared my ingredients. While Bittman described his rendition as macaroni and cheese for “grown-ups”, because of using Emmenthal and parmesan cheeses, I wanted more traditional flavors, with a twist, so I chose cheddar, jack, and ricotta.

Now the thing about ricotta, some people love it, some people hate it. It’s a texture thing. And texture, in my mind, is just as important as smell. Me, personally, I love the texture of ricotta. Michael, on the other hand, does not, but luckily he had not waited for me to make dinner, and wasn’t hungry for my mac and cheese anyways.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with ricotta, it’s the cheese most commonly used in lasagna. It has an almost gritty texture to it, and is used more for the body of a dish rather than the flavor.

While Bittman uses bread crumbs for his recipe, I took the opportunity to again try Panko (japanese bread crumbs), which tend to crisp up a bit more than the traditional crumbs. With the smooth creamy texture of the cheddar and noodles, the slight grittiness of the ricotta, and the crunchiness of the Panko, the textures in the dish were sure to shock my palate.

I have been waiting for an excuse to try the Ménage à trois Chardonnay. The Ménage à trois California Red was one of the first red wines that I was really impressed with. With its upfront fruitiness, medium body, and slight tannin, it was a party for my palate, and since then I have been waiting to try their white, and what better excuse, with three cheeses in my mac and cheese.

The Ménage à trois Chardonnay is described as having citrus aromas from Monterey, tropical flavors from Santa Barbara, and fine structure from Mendocino, a “true ménage à trois”. With an alcohol content of 13.5% the wine’s body would be able to handle the heavy, creamy, textures of the mac and cheese, while the fruitiness and oak would be able to enhance each bite.

After a quick bake, the mac and cheese came out of the oven nice and bubbly, sending the warm smell of cheese and pasta through our apartment. As I corked the bottle and poured a glass, I was immediately over taken with the strong citrus aroma of the wine. After a minute to settle, a fresh swirl led to some more tropical scents of papaya and mango.

The crispy Panko topping of the mac and cheese, as with my mother’s crouton topping, was my favorite part of the dish. In one bite, I was immediately transported to my child hood home, taking a break from homework to sit down with my family and enjoy this heart warming dish. Although I would have liked it more if I had picked up some ham or bacon to include, the simplicity did not become monotonous thanks to the panko and ricotta.

Together the wine and the mac and cheese were made for each other. The body of the Chardonnay was able to stand together with the weight of the dish, without over powering it. The fruitiness and stronger acidity was able to break through the fat from the cheese, while cleansing the palate for a fresh bite.

The thing about it, and this is why I am beginning to despise boxed and prepackaged food, is the whole recipe only took about a half an hour to make. I mean it’s basically boiling some water, melting some cheese, and baking for 15 minutes. So the next time you don’t think you have time to make a meal, just think about it for a moment, there may just be a perfect pair a half an hour away.

Warming Up During Winter

White Bean Soup and 2007 Gnarly Head Pinot Grigio: 5/5

With sub zero temperatures right around the corner I thought it was time for some savory soup. Now I didn’t want to spend all day slaving over a pot, doctoring, and seasoning, and stirring. I just wanted to sauté, simmer, and serve. And If there is anything that follows those guide lines it would be a crock pot recipe.

When Brian and Lucy came over to dinner the other night, they decided to let me borrow their little pot of gold, Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything. From how to chop an onion, to how to prepare an artichoke, this book has it all: an overwhelming amount of recipes, great side notes, picture instructions on preparation, and a section dedicated to knife handling.

So as I was thumbing through the book, I found the soup section, narrowed my search to something main-course worthy, and settled on white bean and ham hock soup. But wait, white beans, don’t beans usually have to be soaked over night? According to Mark Bittman’s experiments, the only difference that occurred from soaking the beans over night was a reduced cooking time of a half an hour. Although he recommends buying beans that have not started to shrivel, and that are uniform in color, he does not say its necessary to soak. So I was willing to give it a shot.

While Bittman’s book does have a side note in the soup section about vegetables that can be added to soups that won’t effect the flavor, I wanted to make sure that the vegetables I chose were good ones. So I did some research online and found a recipe from the latest winner of The Next Iron Chef, Jose Garces, http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/white-bean-soup-with-bacon-and-herbs, which included celery, garlic, carrot, and for a little extra pork flavor, bacon.

Both Bittman and Garce’s recipes also said to prepare the soup on the stove, and seeing as I had to get to a magazine release party, I wanted to make the soup in the crock pot. So I decided to do a little modifying. 3 hours before I wanted the soup to be ready, I started preparing the ingredients. After sauteing the bacon and cooking the veggies in the bacon grease, I brought the beans, chicken stock, ham hock, and veggies, to a boil. Once to a boil I transfered everything to the crock pot and cooked on high until the ready to serve 3 hours later.

Based on the consistency of the soup, the lighter flavors of the chicken stock, and vegetables, I thought that a white wine would be the appropriate accompaniment. While a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc, might have held up to the earthiness of the soup, I think the floral and melon like qualities would have been to light to really awaken the flavors in the dish. Now a Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio, with their heavier bodies, oaky undertones, and rich fruit flavors, would definitely prove an equal match for the soup. But what to choose.

Now when at a liquor or wine store that offers a large selection of wines to choose from, I try not to let the marketing of the wine get in the way, but I have to tell you, I am a sucker for a funny, evocative, or shiny label. So my rule is, when at the grocery store, letting my inner child choose a wine is just fine, as long it is going to pair well with the food.

So as I was meandering by the Pinot Grigio, an interesting graphic caught my eye. A semi impressionistic illustration of a grape vine with a vibrant background of oranges and reds called to me. Stopping to look at the bottle, a 2007 Gnarly Head Pinot Grigio from California, I was amused by the description, soaked in surfing simile. The wine offered flavors of ginger, pineapple, pears, and apples with a finish that “kicked out” with style and grace.

I was sold.

When it came time to eat, Michael was entrenched in the television, watching his beloved show, soon to be off the air, Dollhouse. And while I usually detest the television blaring during dinner, I decided to show a little compassion.

I ladled two servings from the pot, topped each with crispy bacon and a sprinkling of freshly chopped parsley. To soak up the left over soupy goodness, I had popped some garlic bread into the oven, which was now ready, sending tendrils of garlic butter through the kitchen.

As we sat, I corked the bottle and poured two healthy glasses of wine, admiring the symmetry of the table. Immediately my nose was blasted with the strong aromas of pear and ginger, with the subtly apple in the background. The wine’s body was a nice medium, with a presence that could be felt, but did not leave your throat burning without something to pair it with.

Although Mark Bittman’s recipe suggested blending our pureeing the soup, I decided to go with Garces recipe and leave everything whole. I like the flavors in my soup to be distinct and recognizable, instead of overly melded together.

With the freshness of the parsley, the earthiness of the beans, and the smoky flavors of the bacon and ham hock, the soup washed over my palate like a fleece glove on a sub zero day. The contrasting flavors were able to provide amazing depth to the soup, while maintaining the cohesive feeling that the ingredients just took a bath together for the last three hours. The beans were cooked beautifully, melting like butter in my mouth. I don’t know if I will ever soak a bean again.

Together, the wine was able to cleanse the palate, while adding a fruity note to the over all effect of the dish. The smooth finish was able to cool my throat allowing for a fresh warm swallow of soup every time, something we wouldn’t have gotten with red wine.

Jumbo Gumbalaya?

Gumbalaya and 2008 Banrock Station Shriaz: 5/5

I’ve never been to New Orleans. One time I debated Tulane as a possibility for college, but that was 2005, and my life would have been very different had I left the nest only to battle Hurricane Katrina.

The only time I have eaten semi-authentic cajun cuisine was at Heaven on Seven, a Louisiana “style” restaurant owned by two Chicagoans. With live “cajun” music, a variety of hot sauces overtaking the table, and gaudy mardi gras decorations, the restaurant felt more like Disney World than authentic New Orleans. And while I understand what cajun cooking consists of, I can honestly say I have never tasted an authentic creole dish.

So I don’t really know what got into me when I thought of making jambalaya, but I decided it was worth a shot.

Now, although the recipe that I followed http://www.gumbocity.com/chicken_sausage_shrimp.html was for gumbo, I did some research and could only find a couple of differences between gumbo and jambalaya. Most traditional gumbos include okra, tend to be more of a soup or stew consistency, and are served over rice. Jambalayas are usually less stew like and are incorporated with rice. But my recipe did not include okra, and was served over rice. So I think I am calling it—gumbalaya.

With my guests Brian, Lucy, Rocio, and Zack coming over between 6:00 and 7:00, I started cooking around 5:00, expecting to get done around 6:30. Unfortunately I am still not the fastest vegetable chopper so prepping the meal took longer than expected, and Zack, having a soccer game to get to, had to take a cup to go, woops.

Now in addition to the actual recipe, I wanted to spice things up a bit by adding some extra flavors. Instead of using 1 can of beef stock, I decided to take the recipe up a notch by adding 30oz of Goose Island Christmas Ale. The effect just added more depth to the dish. Since the recipe included chorizo, I thought some other great additions would be Ro-Tel, some Andouille sausage, cumin, chili powder, paprika, a dash of cayenne pepper, and a can of Ranch Style beans.

Ranch Style Beans? I had never heard of them either until Mike came around. Ranch style beans, http://www.conagrafoods.com/consumer/brands/brand_info.jsp?cookietest=true&page=ranch_style, are basically chili beans with an attitude. Hailing from texas the beans are canned with Tex-Mex spices, and come in a variety of flavors. They are delicious by themselves or in chili, stews, or gumbalaya.

Luckily Lucy and Brian had a hard time navigating to our apartment so that gave me a little extra time to finish up the recipe. When they arrived it was time to eat. After doing some research I decided an Australian Shiraz would be a great wine to pair with our cajun dish. Something with earthy undertones a medium body, and flavors that would accompany the variety of spices. Asking Rocio to pick up a shiraz, I crossed my fingers for a good pair. She arrived with two bottles of 2008 Banrock Station Shiraz.

With a description of cherry, raspberry, black currant, dark chocolate and spicy oak flavors, I was concerned that the wine would be too fruity to be able to stand against the bold flavors of the gumbalaya. With a whiff I was over taken by the aromatic nose. The description held true as I was immersed in a field of cherries wrapped in warm toasty oak. With an alcohol content of 13% the wine’s body was on the lighter side of medium. Holding on my tongue, the presence was felt, but did not coat each crevasse like that of a heavy bodied merlot. The finish was smooth and clean, with very little tannin to experience.

Catching a whiff of the chorizo in the gumbalaya my mouth began to water again. The first bite was a ethnic jamboree in my mouth. A slow growing heat from the cayenne and chorizo sizzled on my tongue, as perfectly cooked shrimp added texture and sustenance to the over all body of the dish. The cooked peppers, onions, and celery, seemed to coat each bite adding sweetness and earthiness. Each new bite made music in my mouth.

Together the pair did not fail. The lighter body of the shiraz allowed the flavors of the gumbalaya to shine through, while the wines aromatic fruitiness remained recognizable. Together the two did not over power each other, but rather massaged over every zone of my tongue.

Five servings out of the pot, and we hadn’t even made a dent in the gumbalaya. Although I wanted seconds, Brian and Lucy brought a cherry pie, from a bakery by their house, and I did not want to over stuff myself, seeing as thanksgiving was just last week.

With white christmas lights twinkling on Michael and I’s tree and windows, the warmth in the apartment finally felt like Christmas. I whipped out Cranium and we played as we made room for pie. The night was filled with laughter, competition, and good company. Another perfect pair.