Out at ENO

Forlorn Hope Flight and Cheese: 4/5

Price: $$

Address: 505 North Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611

With modern high top wooden tables, a bar of faux marble, and floor to ceiling wine racks, ENO (pronounced EE-noh, as in oenology the art of making wine), in the ground level of the Intercontinental Hotel on Michigan Avenue, attempts to give the feeling of a modern winery, but comes off more as an amusement park recreation.

Started as a refined wine bar in California, specializing in a variety wine, cheese, and chocolate pairings, this now hoity toity chain is strategically located adjacent to high end hotels, leeching off tourist’s and businessmen’s money.

With a variety of options, patrons can choose from wine flights, cheese plates, or the ENO experience, an $85 tour of wine, meat, cheese, and chocolate. Unfortunately for me, the ENO experience was unavailable due to a lack of meat. With one sommelier, one server, and one busser, the operation was run more like circus than a relaxing retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. Expecting to be educated by the sommelier, I was instead brushed off, as she hurried to her computer to delete emails from her over-full inbox. Later, after understanding the rest of the staff was on vacation leaving these three workers to run the establishment for the entire weekend, I was able to forgive the rude behavior.

Deciding on a flight of Forlorn Hope wines paired with a cheese plate recommended by the sommelier, I watched as a slab of marble was placed on a cutting board and adorned with bread, marcona almonds, a seasonal fruit spread, and the three cheeses. Presented together, the wine and cheese were clearly marked by printed cards, including information of names, flavor profiles, and cases produced (for wines).

First was the 2008 Forlorn Hope La Gitana Torrontes from Alta Mesa, California, a light un-oaked white. With strong lychee notes, and hints of a subtle floralness, the Torrontes was light and refreshing on the palate. Paired with a Ossau-Iraty Sheep Cheese from Basque, France, the hard cheese brought out the light complexity of the wine, while adding a subtle saltiness.

Second was the 2007 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdehlo from Amador County, California. This oaked white was fuller bodied and had immediate walnut notes, with a background of honey. Paired with the Gaperon Cow Cheese from Auvergne, France, this soft garlic and peppercorn cheese, was able to contrast with the nuttiness of the wine, providing a strong depth and concentration of flavors.

For the finale the 2008 Forlorn Hope Suspiro del Moro Alvarelhao from Alta Mesa, California, was truly the creme de la creme of the flight. With only 77 cases produced, the wine had rich notes of tobacco mixed with rhubarb, giving off almost an incencse like flavor. Paired with the Sottocenere cow cheese from Venice, Italy, rich in smoky truffle flavors, the combination was a melt in your heart experience.

Sparking conversation at any chance to cool the frustrated employees I was treated to a shitake truffle and another splash of the Alvarelhao. The Alvarelhao brought out the earthiness of the mushrooms, while the smooth chocolate complimented the tobacco flavors of the wine. Truly exceptional.

ENO, while providing over 200 wines, is still a tourist trap, and with places like Wine Styles located a mile south, offering a variety of great cheap wines by the bottle, it will be hard to come back again. But if you don’t mind spending $50 dollar on three 3oz pours and some cheese to impress your date, then ENO is a pretty perfect pair.