Meaty, Meaty Meatloaf

Meatloaf and 2006 Oxford Landing Cabernet and Shriaz Blend: 4/5

American classics—grilled cheese, green bean casserole, pot roast, apple pie. Recipes that came from cupboards and freezers, combinations of miscellaneous odds and ends in a post depression America. In my mind, one recipe screams classic more than any other, a simple combination of ground meat, bread crumbs, some seasoning, and usually ketchup—meatloaf.


Meatloaf, as with many classic american comfort food recipes, is a product of the middle class. Nothing in the dish is rare, exotic, or hard to find. No ingredients are too expensive, and it is able to feed a family of four with some left over. But, classic recipes, usually are lacking in flavor.


Growing up we only had meatloaf a hand full of times. I don’t know if it was my mom’s recipe, or my dad’s distaste for ketchup, but no one really cared for the gelatinous brown mass, blood red, from its tomatoey bath.


But after receiving a call from Michael telling me he got an invitation to go see the Flaming Lips, I wasn’t feeling very motivated to go to the grocery store to make something for myself. So I opened the fridge, the pantry, then the freezer, and then Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything, which is now on my christmas list. With a pound of ground beef in the fridge, along with some veggies, ground venison in the freezer, and panko in the pantry, it was looking like meatloaf was for dinner. http://springpadit.com/ketherian/recipe/bittmansmeatloaf


Of all the meatloafs I’ve had in my life, none have included fresh herbs or minced carrot, and they all were basted in ketchup, so I was a little anxious to taste the final product of this recipe. Would it be better than mom’s? To spice mine up a bit, I added some Worcestershire sauce, some various spices from my cupboard, and what they hey, I had it my fridge, so I minced a rib of celery as well.

For you vegetarians out there, meatloaf is not the prettiest thing to watch while it is cooking. As the outside browns, fat is cooked out of the loaf, seeping onto the baking dish, some coagulating around the meat. Maybe that’s why my mom didn’t like to cook meat loaf. While you can cook meat loaf in a loaf pan, it retains it shape, so you can also make a loaf shape on a baking dish, which is what I did.


Since there was no shopping involved in this recipe, I was left pairing with a wine from my collection. I knew I wanted a red wine. Although the ground beef and venison I used were lean, they were still red meat, and were going to need some tannin to cut through all that meatiness. Now a heavier bodied merlot or a cabernet, would probably outweigh the herbs and spices in the meatloaf, and unfortunately most of my red collection is just that. But, continuing my search, I found something promising.


A blend of Cabernet and Shiraz, the 2006 Oxford Landing blend from south Australia, could fit the bill, not the most expensive wine, but I wasn’t making the most expensive meal, so it seemed perfect. With a description of blackberry and plum, and an alcohol content of 13.5%, the blend would have the perfect body to pair with the lean red meat.

To accompany the meatloaf, I decided on a baked sweet potato and some veggies. For those of you who have not had a baked sweet potato, I strongly suggest giving it a shot. In my opinion, sweet potatoes just have more flavor than traditional russets, while still lending themselves to a variety of toppings. While I like mine with sour cream or butter, you can also top them with brown sugar, cinnamon, candied walnuts, or even maple syrup, perfect to warm you up in the winter. Sweet potatoes are also healthier for you. Lower in empty starches, high in beta carotene, vitamin A, C, and B6, its something you can feel good about eating.

As the loaf made its way out of the oven, sweet smells of parsley, onion, and celery swept the space around me. On multiple occasions now, Michael and I’s neighbors have stopped us on the way to the elevator, and asked if we were the ones doing all of the good smelling cooking. What can I say? I am thinking of buying a dry erase board for our door and post the evening’s pairing.


Staring at the mass of meat, I studied the specks of green and orange. It just looked better than my mom’s. Worried that the loaf would crumble under the weight of my knife I started my first slice. To my surprise everything held together, and was cooked completely through. Examining the cross section, the various specks of other ingredients were perfectly suspended throughout the loaf like little flavor pockets waiting to be popped.


Swirling and sniffing, the wine smelled very oaky and acidic, but after a second swirl I could pick out some blackberry notes. Having aged a couple of years, the wine was darker in color, and had noticeable legs, but did not coat the glass like syrup. Upon first taste, I was over powered by the strong acidity, burning my throat on the way down. I began to worry that the meatloaf didn’t stand a chance.


Segmenting a small bite, I brought the meatloaf to my mouth. I was overpowered by the rich herby flavor of the parsley, with fresh compliments of carrot and celery. Even with wine on my palate the bold zest of the meatloaf was able to withstand the acidity of the wine. With the sweet flavor of the sweet potato, and the cruchiness of steamed veggies, I was in a 1950s dining room, complete with mom in pearls.


As I sat alone at my dining room table, I made the realization that food is best when shared. Not only is it the wine and food being paired, it’s also the company. But solitude aside, it was a perfect pair.

1 comments:

dkobrn said...

Love your blog! There are so many times I can relate and it seems even taste the food. I have loved food and collected recipes since I was 17 years old and am wayyyyy past that now, but that excitement about food never goes away. I tend to gravitate toward red wines and I can't tell you the number of times I tasted it alone and thought, "Oh no, I wasted all that money on THIS?", only to have it match perfectly with the meal. Keep writing! You write very well and the touch of humor has me laughing out loud--really!

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