Channeling Chicken Fried Steak

Chicken Fried Steak and 2009 Big House White: 5/5

2009 Big House White: 81/100

When Michael and I went to Texas this past fall, we met his mom at some chain restaurant in Fort Worth, where Michael got steak fingers, and Debbie, ‘Woman’ as Michael calls her, got chicken fried steak. Both gigantic portions came served with fries and white country gravy.

The funny thing about Illinois is that other than Chicago and the surrounding suburbs, most of the state is fields, miles and miles, of corn fields, bean fields, and hay fields. With corn fields come farmers, farmers, livestock, livestock, the butcher, and you end up eating meat, potatoes and corn, ever night of the week. So in Rockford, at a restaurant called the Machine Shed in particular, it’s not hard to find Chicken fried steak, but I guess here in the city serving deep fried cube steak might be a bit low brow. Heaven On Seven, a New Orleans inspired restaurant, has the dish on the menu, but it better be fried in gold for $17.95, I mean we’re talking cube steak here.

So what is chicken fried steak all about anyways? Last night I just happen to catch the episode of Good Eats where the recipe I used was being covered. http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/chicken-fried-steak-recipe/index.html According to the Nutritional Anthropologist Deborah Duchon, who pops in on the show, chicken fried steak stems from the German Wienerschnitzel, a breaded and fried veal cutlet. When the Germans immigrated to North America they ended up in the middle part of Texas. Unable to produce ample amounts of veal, they used the tougher parts of the cow, which were then tenderized and fried similarly. Combining that with another dish in a cream sauce, chicken fried steak was born.

When it comes to pairing a wine, fried food is kind of a conundrum. Usually fried food is associated with bars, and bars, beer. And with cube steak, breading, and gravy, your palate almost craves some carbonation to subdue those fatty, mouth coating textures. Since cube steak, itself, isn’t all that fatty to begin with, it’s not sacrilegious to stay away from red wine when it comes to this dish. For my sides I decided to make some corn succotash, with peppers and cajun seasoning, and some mashed cauliflower, a healthy alternative to mashed potatoes. Since both were pretty light, I was left with the debate of bubbles or no bubbles. When doing bubbly with an entree, brut is better. You don’t want to have a sweet sparkling wine with your super savory food. At the same time, I still consider most sparkling wines on the lighter side of the spectrum, so even though they might provide some needed effervescence, the flavor of the wine might be totally washed out by the food. The other alternative is to choose a medium bodied white wine, something like a Viognier or Pinot Grigio, that will provide a little more flavor and aromatics, but still have that ability to cleanse the palate.

Since this was a working man’s dish, I didn’t think in necessary to splurge on a $20+ bottle of wine, so strolling down the wine isle Michael pointed out the 2009 Big House White from California. Basically a medium bodied blended table wine, Big House White is a blend of Muscat Canelli, Viognier, Gruner Vetliner, and Malvasia Bianaca, all for under 10 bucks. We tried the Big House Red with Paula Deen’s Beef Stroganoff a couple months back and thought it to be a tasty table wine, so I thought, why not give the white a try?

As with any home frying, be prepared to get messy, but there’s something about the smell of flour, egg, and oil that just makes you feel comfortable. As I dredged, and soaked, and fried, Michael sat in anticipation in the living room. Usually I would be making something vegetarian, but since everyone had prior obligations, this meal was just going to be for Michael and me.

I don’t know if I used too much oil, or if there was a flaw in the recipe, but putting the already fried steaks in the oven, did not allow for the grease to drip off as planned, so I suggest if you do make this, to rest the steaks on some paper towels for a few moments before popping them in the oven to keep warm.

I have to admit, I am getting pretty good at multi-tasking in the kitchen, as the steak was frying, my cauliflower was boiling, my peppers were sauteing, and I had the corn warming in the microwave. Up until now, I never thought I would be able to make one of Rachel Ray’s dishes in 30 minutes, but I have to admit, I think I could come pretty close.

After I whipped up the gravy, and mashed the cauliflower, it was time to eat. Now Michael says white gravy is traditional when it comes to chicken fried steak, but I just think brown gravy made with chicken stock has a little more flavor. Either way, it put a smile on Michael’s face.

Taking a whiff of the wine I was met with rich floral aromatics of apple blossoms, and peach. Coating my palate with a light and acidic quality, I could pick out hints of grapefruit, and an apple after taste. Since the wine was so aromatic the smell was almost palate cleansing just by itself, so I wasn’t concerned with the pair.

With a nice peppery flavor from the gravy, followed by a slight crunch from the breading and a slightly chewy, but still tender piece of cube steak, it wasn’t long before the chicken fried steak started to disappear from my plate. Adding a nice cajun spice, the corn succotash was a intermittent relief from the cube steak, and the mashed cauliflower was a happy, light alternative to starchy mashed potatoes.

Finishing with another taste of wine, the acidity of the Big House White was strong enough to handle the fattiness of the fried steak, and the sweet corn succotash was able to enhance the fruity quality of the wine.

Although Michael said he wasn’t any less homesick, I knew he was satisfied at least. Using all of the senses, food is able to transport us in both time and space, and I hope that Michael was able to at least go home for a couple of bites. Another Perfect Pair.