Savory Saturday Scallops

Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne and 2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling: 5/5

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rielsing: 93/100

Arriving home, I discovered the newest addition to our cook book collection tucked away in Michael’s Borders bag—Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Receiving so much publicity these days from Julie and Julia, Julia Child’s classic culinary capsule received a well deserved second wind this past year thanks to Meryl Streep, Amy Adams, and Julie Powell. I won’t lie, there is a large chance this blog would not have been started if it hadn’t been for Julie and Julia.

So keeping with the importance of the week, I decided to make a recipe to pair with Dr. Konstantin Frank’s highly acclaimed 2007 Dry Riesling. Retailing at $17.99 a bottle, this wine won double gold from the New York State Fair Wine Competition and The Big E Wine Competition, gold from the Los Angeles International Wine Competition, and received a score of 93/100 from Wine & Spirits Magazine—truly the fruit of Dr. Frank’s labors.

Described as pairing well with shellfish, I asked Michael to thumb through Mastering and pick out something shellfish-y for dinner. Meant to be devoured, rather than thumbed through, Mastering the art of French Cooking, is unlike the cook books we are used to seeing on the shelves today. Rather than lists and lists of recipes all organized into categories, Mastering, builds upon itself, using prose and techniques in an accumulative progression, more like a novel than a reference book. Having said that, Michael handed me the book opened to Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne (Scallops and Mushrooms in White Wine Sauce) http://www.bigoven.com/72221-Coquilles-St-Jacques-a-la-Parisienne-recipe.html. Traditionally the recipe functions as a first course, so I decided to make some basic risotto (http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/ricegrains/r/risotto.htm) to substantiate the meal.

To quote Julia, “This is a book for the servantless American cook who can be unconcerned on occasion with budgets, waistlines, time schedules, children’s meals, the parent-chauffeur-den-mother syndrome, or anything else which might interfere with the enjoyment of producing something wonderful to eat.”— basically a cook book for most gay men in their 20‘s today. But let me just tell you, she wasn’t lying. Costing $14.99 a pound, the scallops took care of the budget, the entire recipe consumed a full stick of butter, taking care of the waistline, and while some recipes can be set aside to cook all day, this recipe required almost 2 hours of uninterrupted attention. Was it worth it? Every bite.

Creating a truly cohesive meal, I used the Dr. Frank Dry Riesling in both the risotto and the scallops, hoping to transfer some of the acidity and minerality to the dish. Finishing in the broiler, the scallops bubbled and browned, sending the smell of swiss cheese and shallots out the door and into the elevator. Our poor neighbors must be hungry all the time. Using some left over greens, I decided to make a wilted salad to top the dish, providing bitterness that would juxtapose the rich and smooth flavors of the meal.

Sitting and salivating, Michael snapped some pictures while I plated my dish. Making the composition pop, the cream colored scallops and risotto stood in an enjoyable contrast with the purple and emerald greens—probably one of the prettiest dishes I’ve made yet.

Inhaling over the wine, I was met with the aroma of bright citrus and mango that gave way to apple and pear blossoms. Noticing a greenish yellow hue, I swirled my glass, watching noticeable legs tear down the sides. Taking a mouth full I was met with a a bright acidity, not as overpowering as the Rkasiteli, and a pronounced minerality. Swallowing, I was left with a lingering dryness and slatey flavor, like having put my tongue on a piece of limestone.

Cutting like butter against the weight of my fork, I speared a scallop. Gathering a bit of everything, I took my first bite. With a rich creaminess the risotto provided a needed texture, which gave way to the buttery smooth scallops. Providing depth and contrast the greens added a needed salty bitterness which awakened all the areas of my tongue.

Following the first bite, I sipped the wine again. Awakening the wine in the dish itself, the Riesling created a harmonious quality in my mouth, like icing on a cake. Having a lingering dryness the Riesling was able to keep my palate fresh for each new bite of scallops, while the mushrooms and greens provided depth to the lighter flavors of the wine. Every bite, and every sip, only added warmth and harmony to my palate.

Weighing heavy in our stomachs, Michael and I decided on a very small second portion to pair with the rest of our wine. As I cleaned the dishes, I thought a little about Julia Child, and how different food must have been in 1950’s France. That’s another joy of cooking at home, you truly get to see what goes into the dish, and recreate a little bit of tangible history. Another Perfect Pair.