Savory Saturday Scallops

Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne and 2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling: 5/5

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rielsing: 93/100

Arriving home, I discovered the newest addition to our cook book collection tucked away in Michael’s Borders bag—Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Receiving so much publicity these days from Julie and Julia, Julia Child’s classic culinary capsule received a well deserved second wind this past year thanks to Meryl Streep, Amy Adams, and Julie Powell. I won’t lie, there is a large chance this blog would not have been started if it hadn’t been for Julie and Julia.

So keeping with the importance of the week, I decided to make a recipe to pair with Dr. Konstantin Frank’s highly acclaimed 2007 Dry Riesling. Retailing at $17.99 a bottle, this wine won double gold from the New York State Fair Wine Competition and The Big E Wine Competition, gold from the Los Angeles International Wine Competition, and received a score of 93/100 from Wine & Spirits Magazine—truly the fruit of Dr. Frank’s labors.

Described as pairing well with shellfish, I asked Michael to thumb through Mastering and pick out something shellfish-y for dinner. Meant to be devoured, rather than thumbed through, Mastering the art of French Cooking, is unlike the cook books we are used to seeing on the shelves today. Rather than lists and lists of recipes all organized into categories, Mastering, builds upon itself, using prose and techniques in an accumulative progression, more like a novel than a reference book. Having said that, Michael handed me the book opened to Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne (Scallops and Mushrooms in White Wine Sauce) http://www.bigoven.com/72221-Coquilles-St-Jacques-a-la-Parisienne-recipe.html. Traditionally the recipe functions as a first course, so I decided to make some basic risotto (http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/ricegrains/r/risotto.htm) to substantiate the meal.

To quote Julia, “This is a book for the servantless American cook who can be unconcerned on occasion with budgets, waistlines, time schedules, children’s meals, the parent-chauffeur-den-mother syndrome, or anything else which might interfere with the enjoyment of producing something wonderful to eat.”— basically a cook book for most gay men in their 20‘s today. But let me just tell you, she wasn’t lying. Costing $14.99 a pound, the scallops took care of the budget, the entire recipe consumed a full stick of butter, taking care of the waistline, and while some recipes can be set aside to cook all day, this recipe required almost 2 hours of uninterrupted attention. Was it worth it? Every bite.

Creating a truly cohesive meal, I used the Dr. Frank Dry Riesling in both the risotto and the scallops, hoping to transfer some of the acidity and minerality to the dish. Finishing in the broiler, the scallops bubbled and browned, sending the smell of swiss cheese and shallots out the door and into the elevator. Our poor neighbors must be hungry all the time. Using some left over greens, I decided to make a wilted salad to top the dish, providing bitterness that would juxtapose the rich and smooth flavors of the meal.

Sitting and salivating, Michael snapped some pictures while I plated my dish. Making the composition pop, the cream colored scallops and risotto stood in an enjoyable contrast with the purple and emerald greens—probably one of the prettiest dishes I’ve made yet.

Inhaling over the wine, I was met with the aroma of bright citrus and mango that gave way to apple and pear blossoms. Noticing a greenish yellow hue, I swirled my glass, watching noticeable legs tear down the sides. Taking a mouth full I was met with a a bright acidity, not as overpowering as the Rkasiteli, and a pronounced minerality. Swallowing, I was left with a lingering dryness and slatey flavor, like having put my tongue on a piece of limestone.

Cutting like butter against the weight of my fork, I speared a scallop. Gathering a bit of everything, I took my first bite. With a rich creaminess the risotto provided a needed texture, which gave way to the buttery smooth scallops. Providing depth and contrast the greens added a needed salty bitterness which awakened all the areas of my tongue.

Following the first bite, I sipped the wine again. Awakening the wine in the dish itself, the Riesling created a harmonious quality in my mouth, like icing on a cake. Having a lingering dryness the Riesling was able to keep my palate fresh for each new bite of scallops, while the mushrooms and greens provided depth to the lighter flavors of the wine. Every bite, and every sip, only added warmth and harmony to my palate.

Weighing heavy in our stomachs, Michael and I decided on a very small second portion to pair with the rest of our wine. As I cleaned the dishes, I thought a little about Julia Child, and how different food must have been in 1950’s France. That’s another joy of cooking at home, you truly get to see what goes into the dish, and recreate a little bit of tangible history. Another Perfect Pair.

Beautiful Beef Bourguignon Bliss

Beef Bourguignon + Bliss family vineyards Schoolhouse Red: 5/5

In these challenging economic times, where fast feasts, and over-priced “experiences” run rampart, I call your attention to the past. Back to the time when food was prepared by hand, ingredients were local, not of the factory, and a meal with friends and family was thought to be a privilege and not a burden.

While reading M.F.K Fisher’s The Art of Eating, I made a realization, as many before me and many after me will do that, our lives revolve around food—birthday cake, Thanksgiving dinner, Valentine’s Day chocolate, corned beef and cabbage on St. Patrick’s day. We mound importance on “favorite” foods, we’re transported historically and geographically with specific dishes, and we experiment with daring flavor combinations and concoctions. So, why then, with so much enjoyment in food, does it seem that we would rather whip through a drive through than invest time in a much more fulfilling home-cooked masterpiece?

I was given a little taste of history in my last culinary calling. A Julia Child staple, showcased in Julie and Julia, Beef Bourguignon, a classic French dish of beef, vegetables, and red wine. The recipe originally published in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, was designed so that anyone could make this meal. As an experiment in following directions, I put the recipe to the test.

Have you ever browned beef in bacon grease or simmered pearl onions in beef stock with an herb bouquet? Maybe you are one of those cooking “novices” interested in cooking, but afraid to take a stab at it (I use quotations because if you can tie a shoe you can cook a meal). Well to you I recommend doing one of the above listed and tell me if your heart doesn’t start to sizzle after you smell the rhapsody of richness roaming around your kitchen. I’m not going to lie, this recipe is not simple, but if you have a job which requires following directions, you will be able to do this. As Julia Child says, “have no fear”.

Now the recipe, http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/recipe?id=8222804, takes time. This isn’t something you can whip up while your hunny checks their emails. We’re talking you, the kitchen, popping grease, simmering sauce, some chopping, dicing, mashing, and sweating for a good 4-5 hours. What might seem like a daunting task, is more like meditation, just you, the beef, and the stove, completely in the moment, concentrating on creating a masterpiece—absolutely worth every minute.

But finally, glistening off of each plate, the finished product, a trophy, best served family style, because most of your energy will have evaporated with the water from the sauce. Upon first taste the flavor is that of beef stew and pot roast, but with each consecutive bite the flavors gain depth. Pearl onions pop like flavor pouches, sweet and herby, while the complexity of the red wine sauce shows through. Each bite of beef retains its shape until pierced with a fork, and then melts in your mouth, tender and moist.

What stands alone as a perfect dish in and of itself, is even further highlighted by a fruity, fuller bodied, red wine. In this instance, Bliss Schoolhouse Red, a fitting title if I do say so myself. Rich fruit flavors accentuate the complexity of the beef, while smoky oak melds harmoniously with the featured seasonings. Pairing equally, the body does not fall short against a bite’s rich weight. Since the beef is tender and moist the lack of tannin works with this dish. Rather than having a full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, which might over power the delicate complexity of the meal, a fruitier red plays ping pong on your palate between the beef and wine. The best part, a bottle of Bliss can be bought for only $13.99 so if you must pick up two, you don’t have to feel guilty. I found this bottle at Wine Styles in the South Loop, 1240 S. Michigan Ave.

Initially our evening was supposed to be a party of four, but with two cancellations, and no one willing to make last minute plans, Michael and I enjoyed Beef Bourguignon two nights in a row, the first, he and I, the second with my friend Lisa. I have to tell you the dish might have even been better the second night, having an entire day to marinate. If you are planning on throwing a party, preparing this entrée a day in advance will guarantee gawking from your guests, and leave you with energy for dessert.

Speaking of dessert, I also made a carrot cake to pair with a Shoo Fly Viognier, but for the sake of space, and the importance I think Beef Bourguignon deserves, I am going to post that pairing in a day or two. So until then, keep your eye out for the next perfect pair.