That's Amore

Chili Rubbed Pork Tenderloin with 2007 Eos Estate French Connection: 5/5

2007 Eos Estate French Connection: 91/100

Pairing Eos Estate’s 2007 French Connection with Pure Dark’s™ cardamom allspice rounds would have been delicious in and of itself, but with Valentines day only two days away I wanted to see if I could push the culinary envelope a little further.

Inspired by an episode of Iron Chef where Duff Goldman stuffs a beef roast with chocolate and chili threads, I set out to infuse the chocolate with some meat. Now at first, I thought, I’ve had chocolate and bacon before, and with the added a salty element, the chocolate seems much more savory, but chocolate for a main course?

Usually I will find a recipe either in a cook book or online, but I really wanted to test what I’ve learned so far in my culinary expeditions, so after a couple of days of pondering I came up with something I thought would work perfectly. My plan? A chili rubbed pork tenderloin stuffed with Pure Dark™ cardamom allspice rounds, drizzled with a sherry and coffee reduction. On the side, pink champagne risotto, with a salad of arugula, strawberries, and roasted almonds in a lemon champagne vinaigrette. Sounds good right? Paired with the bottle of French Connection, the meal sounded romantic and delicious.

Since I didn’t really use any recipes, I can’t link you to other websites, so listed below are the instruction for making this romantic meal. Sorry about the length.

Being Thursday, Shelbey and Zach were both coming over, so I wanted to make sure there would be something substantial for them to eat, and the risotto was my answer. I’m sure you’ve all heard of risotto before, but for those of you who have never made it, risotto has that stick to your ribs quality like mashed potatoes, but can be infused with a broad range of flavors.

With the succulent smell of pork and spices melding with the champagne and coffee lingering in the air, the warm feeling of love circulated through the apartment, tickling our nostrils. As a culinary joke, I tried to incorporate as many aphrodisiacs as possible and the list included: chocolate, champagne, strawberries, almonds, arugula, coffee, garlic, vanilla, honey, and nutmeg. Needless to say there was romance in the air.

Slicing into the pork loin, the inside oozed with chocolate, and the pork looked perfectly juicy. Grabbing my handy dandy biscuit cutter I made a round of risotto on the upper left hand corner of the plate, with two slices of pork leaned against it. After a smear of reduction and a smattering of arugula, I fanned the strawberry as a last garnish, and the plating was complete.

Giving the wine a good 6 hours to breath I anxiously poured everyone a glass. In case you didn’t read below, the Eos Estate’s French connection is a traditional blend of red Bordelaise grape varieties consisting of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Described as having dark notes of leather and cigar wrapper I lowered my nose for a sniff. Met with rich tones of tobacco and plum, the aroma combined with the cinnamon and spice lingering in the air, causing my mouth to salivate, and my heart to drop. I was in love, and I hadn’t even had a bite.

Taking a mouthful of wine, rich flavors of black currant and berries danced around my tongue, with the fullness of silk and noticeable tannins. With a lingering finish of tobacco I just knew the wine was going to bring out the flavors of the coffee and sherry.

Cutting into the pork tenderloin I made sure to get a bite with some chocolate. It was the moment of truth, would the dish be a success? As I bit down on the juicy bite of pork, my mouth was overtaken by a wave of sensations. A slow burning chipotle rose to the front before being whisked away by cinnamon, leaving allspice and cardamom tangoing on the tip of my tongue. The velvety texture of chocolate and the chewiness of the pork harmoniously coated my palate, while the faint bitterness of coffee worked its way through. Taking a bite of risotto and salad I was met with a refreshing acidity, with a slight bitterness from the arugula. With the added crunch of the almond and the sweetness of the champagne in the vinaigrette, the effect was mouth watering and cleansing, preparing me for another drink of wine.

With a playfulness the wine seamed to bring out a different flavor of the dish each drink—strawberry, cinnamon, chocolate, coffee. With upfront tannins my palate was not left feeling coated, but rather refreshed and ready for another bite of food. As our glass began emptying, the room started feeling a bit warmer, the light a bit dimmer, and the beating of my heart, a bit louder. I was in love, not only with the man sitting across from me, but also the dish in front of me.

With full hearts, full stomachs, and enriched palates we all sat down to watch project runway, though the show was drowned out with giggles and jokes of the “aphrodisiacs”. As the night came to a close, and the candles were blown out, one by one, the clear night sky reflected off a still lake Michigan—truly a romantic affair, and another Pefect Pair.

Pork Tenderloin - cooking time approx: 1 1/2 hours largely unattended

Ingredients

1 1½ - 2 lbs. plain, un-marinated pork tenderloin

1/3 - 1/2 cup Chili Rub - ingredients listed below*

1/3 cup Pure Dark™ Cardamom Allspice Rounds, or high quality dark chocolate discs.

Chili Rub

Combine all of the following and stir:

1 tbsp chili powder

1 tbsp cumin

1 tbsp cinnamon

1 tbsp paprika

1 tbsp salt

1 tbsp pepper

1 tsp nutmeg

1 tsp all spice -more if not using Pure Dark™

(1 tsp cardamom - if not using Pure Dark™)

1 tsp chipotle chili powder (optional, omit if spice sensitive)

1 tsp cayenne pepper (optional, omit if spice sensitive)

You can modify this rub, I recommend taking a small piece of chocolate dashed with some rub and trying the combination, then you can adjust to your liking. If you don’t have all of the above listed spices I recommend grabbing a Creole Seasoning from the store, like Zatarain’s or Tony Chacere’s, and adding some cinnamon and nutmeg to it.

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees
2. Butterfly Pork Tenderloin lengthwise from end to end, so you are able to open the loin like a book.
3. Dust the inside of the loin with rub and layer chocolate throughout, overlapping pieces so there is a row of chocolate in the center of the loin.
4. Close and use remaining rub to coat the outside of the loin, massaging the seasoning into every crevasse.
5. Using toothpicks, secure the pork loin closed so the chocolate will not ooze out during baking.
6. Let the loin rest in the fridge for 1-2 hours before baking (optional)
7. Cook for 1 hour and 10 minutes in a 9 X 13 baking dish. Rotate pan once half way through cooking to ensure evenness. Allow the meat to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Pink Champagne Risotto - cooking time approx: 45 minutes

Ingredients

2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil

2 large shallots (or 1 med onion) chopped fine

3 cloves garlic minced

2½ cups of Arborio rice, found near the rice and beans in the grocery store.

1 bottle of Rose Champagne

4 cups of Vegetable / Chicken stock kept warm

Directions

1. Heat olive oil in a large pot.
2. Add shallots and cook, stirring often, until slightly translucent
3. Add garlic and 1/2 bottle of Champagne cook for 1-2 minutes
4. Add Arborio and stir continuously for 2 minutes
5. Add Stock 1/2 - 1 cup at a time, stirring often, adding more once Arborio has soaked up the majority.
6. Add the other 1/2 bottle of champagne, minus the one glass you drank already, remove from heat and cover until ready to serve.

Coffee and Sherry Reduction - cooking time approx: 15 - 20 minutes

Ingredients

1 cup of cream sherry

1 cup of brewed coffee

1 sliced strawberry

1 tbsp honey

1 tsp vanilla extract

Directions

1. add sherry, coffee, strawberry, honey, and vanilla to a medium sized pot over high heat
2. cook until reduced to a semi syrupy consistency, 15 - 20 minutes.

The reduction will have a bitter sweet flavor and is meant to be drizzled over the meat to enhance the flavors.

Baby Arugula Salad

Ingredients

3 - 4 cups baby arugula

1 cup roasted almonds chopped (recipe found here: http://www.recipezaar.com/Simple-Roasted-Almonds-108311)

1 shallot chopped fine

1/4 cup grated parmesan (optional)

1/2 cup lemon champagne vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Directions

1. In a small mixing bowl add small amounts of arugula, almonds, shallot, parmesan, and vinaigrette.
2. using your hand, mix the ingredients per plate, so that you can save what you don’t use for a later time, without having soggy arugula.
3. Fan a strawberry by slicing small lengthwise incisions along the strawberry and applying pressure to the base.

Lemon Champagne Vinaigrette

Ingredients

1/3 cup of champagne

2-3 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1.combine champagne, olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper in a bowl

2.whisk with a fork until ingredients reach a state of emulsion.

Savory Saturday Scallops

Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne and 2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling: 5/5

2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rielsing: 93/100

Arriving home, I discovered the newest addition to our cook book collection tucked away in Michael’s Borders bag—Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Receiving so much publicity these days from Julie and Julia, Julia Child’s classic culinary capsule received a well deserved second wind this past year thanks to Meryl Streep, Amy Adams, and Julie Powell. I won’t lie, there is a large chance this blog would not have been started if it hadn’t been for Julie and Julia.

So keeping with the importance of the week, I decided to make a recipe to pair with Dr. Konstantin Frank’s highly acclaimed 2007 Dry Riesling. Retailing at $17.99 a bottle, this wine won double gold from the New York State Fair Wine Competition and The Big E Wine Competition, gold from the Los Angeles International Wine Competition, and received a score of 93/100 from Wine & Spirits Magazine—truly the fruit of Dr. Frank’s labors.

Described as pairing well with shellfish, I asked Michael to thumb through Mastering and pick out something shellfish-y for dinner. Meant to be devoured, rather than thumbed through, Mastering the art of French Cooking, is unlike the cook books we are used to seeing on the shelves today. Rather than lists and lists of recipes all organized into categories, Mastering, builds upon itself, using prose and techniques in an accumulative progression, more like a novel than a reference book. Having said that, Michael handed me the book opened to Coquilles St. Jacques a la Parisienne (Scallops and Mushrooms in White Wine Sauce) http://www.bigoven.com/72221-Coquilles-St-Jacques-a-la-Parisienne-recipe.html. Traditionally the recipe functions as a first course, so I decided to make some basic risotto (http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/ricegrains/r/risotto.htm) to substantiate the meal.

To quote Julia, “This is a book for the servantless American cook who can be unconcerned on occasion with budgets, waistlines, time schedules, children’s meals, the parent-chauffeur-den-mother syndrome, or anything else which might interfere with the enjoyment of producing something wonderful to eat.”— basically a cook book for most gay men in their 20‘s today. But let me just tell you, she wasn’t lying. Costing $14.99 a pound, the scallops took care of the budget, the entire recipe consumed a full stick of butter, taking care of the waistline, and while some recipes can be set aside to cook all day, this recipe required almost 2 hours of uninterrupted attention. Was it worth it? Every bite.

Creating a truly cohesive meal, I used the Dr. Frank Dry Riesling in both the risotto and the scallops, hoping to transfer some of the acidity and minerality to the dish. Finishing in the broiler, the scallops bubbled and browned, sending the smell of swiss cheese and shallots out the door and into the elevator. Our poor neighbors must be hungry all the time. Using some left over greens, I decided to make a wilted salad to top the dish, providing bitterness that would juxtapose the rich and smooth flavors of the meal.

Sitting and salivating, Michael snapped some pictures while I plated my dish. Making the composition pop, the cream colored scallops and risotto stood in an enjoyable contrast with the purple and emerald greens—probably one of the prettiest dishes I’ve made yet.

Inhaling over the wine, I was met with the aroma of bright citrus and mango that gave way to apple and pear blossoms. Noticing a greenish yellow hue, I swirled my glass, watching noticeable legs tear down the sides. Taking a mouth full I was met with a a bright acidity, not as overpowering as the Rkasiteli, and a pronounced minerality. Swallowing, I was left with a lingering dryness and slatey flavor, like having put my tongue on a piece of limestone.

Cutting like butter against the weight of my fork, I speared a scallop. Gathering a bit of everything, I took my first bite. With a rich creaminess the risotto provided a needed texture, which gave way to the buttery smooth scallops. Providing depth and contrast the greens added a needed salty bitterness which awakened all the areas of my tongue.

Following the first bite, I sipped the wine again. Awakening the wine in the dish itself, the Riesling created a harmonious quality in my mouth, like icing on a cake. Having a lingering dryness the Riesling was able to keep my palate fresh for each new bite of scallops, while the mushrooms and greens provided depth to the lighter flavors of the wine. Every bite, and every sip, only added warmth and harmony to my palate.

Weighing heavy in our stomachs, Michael and I decided on a very small second portion to pair with the rest of our wine. As I cleaned the dishes, I thought a little about Julia Child, and how different food must have been in 1950’s France. That’s another joy of cooking at home, you truly get to see what goes into the dish, and recreate a little bit of tangible history. Another Perfect Pair.

Succulent Scampi with Tantalizing Torrontes

Shrimp Scampi with 2009 Crios Torrontes: 4.5/5

Between The Food Network, recipes pasted on to every grocery item you purchase from the store, and the colossal cookbook that is the internet , the dinner dilemma is not a matter of too few options , but rather a surplus. At least that was my problem last night.

This is my recommended remedy. First pick cuisine geography: Mexican, Italian, American, Thai, Chinese, French, ect. Just saying these words to yourself sparks those recognizable flavor profiles. Next think of your favorite restaurant that serves the desired geographical cuisine. Third, envision the menu, or look it up online (I like to envision, because if I look at the menu, there is the possibility I might decide to dine-out). If this does not succeed at first, repeat the process based on a different geography. When you find a dish that sparks some saliva, find a recipe, this is where the internet come in handy. If going the cyberspace route, I recommend finding a recipe that has lots of stars, and some sustainable reviews.

Last night, dinner was for a party of three, Michael, myself, and my best friend Rocio. After the great geographic debate, I had settled on shrimp scampi. I found a recipe online, http://southernfood.about.com/od/shrimprecipes/r/bln81.htm (for the sake of space, I will just be linking the recipes from now on), and looked in He said Beer, She Said Wine for a possible pairing. This recipe is a piece of cake, or I guess you could say shrimp (hardy har har). It takes probably 20 minutes, including prep, and the smell of garlic, green onion, and shrimp will linger through your kitchen the entire evening.

Marnie Old’s, the she of She Said Wine, recommends pairing garlic shrimp with a fairly full bodied, and snappy wine, like Hermanos Lurton Rueda Blanco or an Argentine Torrontes. At Un-Cork it, I had no luck finding the Rueda, and was a little hesitant in asking someone (see first post), but luckily I did find a fairly inexpensive bottle of 2009 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes for $14.99. Torrontes is Argentina’s “uniquely aromatic grape” displaying great fruit flavors and balance, according to the wine label.

Now for recipes that call for wine, like this shrimp scampi, I suggest using Barefoot. I find these wines fairly drinkable, but not so much pair-able, great for cooking, and most importantly, inexpensive. You can pick up the entire barefoot collection, 8 bottles, for probably $40 dollars, or cheaper if they are on sale.

Putting the scampi over cheese risotto made for a beautiful plating. I garnished the plates with a twist of lemon, and some parsley that I had from last week’s Coq Au Vin. Concerned that the wine was not going to be able to balance the rich flavors of garlic and onion in the scampi, I took my first tasting. With a silky floral and citrusy scent, the acidity in the wine was able to cut through the rich buttery texture of the risotto and scampi, leaving the palate cleansed and refreshed for each bite. Matching the body of the wine, the risotto provided a little heft. Bringing out the citrus overtones of the Torrontes, the fresh lemon juice in the scampi bounced back and forth on the tongue like kindergartners playing a game of tag.

The over all lightness of the meal left room for some dessert or seconds, but each of us came up with an excuse to have both. As we debated what scary movie to watch after dinner, lingering flavors of garlic and onion rested on my tongue. Luckily it was not one of those vampire’s nightmare meals that leave you unapproachable for days. This morning my palate is back to normal, and I am ready for another perfect pair.